We have been 'aving a"Foodie Love Affair" with the Dordogne region in South Western France for years. Nobody knew about our illicitly delicious relationship until October 2010 which until now had
been hidden beneath the covers of Jeanne Strang's famous "Goose Fat & Garlic" cook book, equally complicit in keeping everything "Hush Hush" was Stephanie Alexander.
"Mo had to leave for Wales earlier than planned owing to her Mothers seriously deteriorating ill health.
Sadly our pilgrimage to this exquisite part of France was marred by the passing on of Mo's Mother who died peacefully in Wales with her family around her, including Mo.
I arrived in England and went down to East Sussex to stay with my brother John, his lovely wife Sue and Tom their son.
I had not seen John,no excuses for around 30-35 years.
I had not seen John,no excuses for around 30-35 years.
He owns a large Victorian ex Doctors home on an acre of land in the gorgeous East Sussex countryside.Great to see him and his family again.
The next morning left for London to catch a train to Nayland to spend a night with Maggie and Michael Green. They live in a charming 15th century house surrounded by a delightful garden and countryside. We had supper in one of their favourite pubs and I feasted on delicious Cod in Beer Batter and thick chunky chips, yummy and washed it all down with the local Bitter.
A wee video of Nayland and Church Bell practice
As I love old churches we visited a local Tudor period one, most exquisite architecture, they were preparing for Harvest Festival........Michael looking on with keen interest.
Left the next morning to get down to the Isle of Wight. The plan was to meet Mo down in Portsmouth and then catch a ferry across to the Island. All went according to plan and we met and caught the ferry. Fascinating to see the old Napoleonic period fortifications in the channel, apparently some of them are for sale.
John and Joan met us at the ferry terminal, hugs and kisses and we set off for their super "Boathouse" on the water at St Helens.
As we arrived there was the South African Flag, snapping in a crisp southerly wind to greet us, fabulous.
The Boathouse is really a fabulous place, spacious, airy, light and imaginatively designed....absolutely loved it!
Gleaming pale wood floors, stainless steel, large sliding doors on three levels with bedrooms being on the upper levels.
The garden was all about stone, old boats, floats and ocean gale etc, withstanding shrubbery.
This is what it looked like originally
The gorgeous garden
John had an unique way of entering his home,with his knees the way they are,how long will he be able to keep doing it,very amusing from below
Joan had put on a delicious spread of local cheeses and other delicacies which was delicious, John had provided Ken Forrester Chenin to wash it down.
We discovered the "Garlic Farm" a couple of miles away in the Arreton Valley. What an amazing place.......We have never seen such a single minded operation anywhere in the world. Thousands of Garlic Globes everywhere, from all over the world. It is owned by a Colin Boswell, an ex City man with a degree in economics....he started it 30 years ago. The restaurant on the farm specialises in, you guessed it, garlic dishes. Great service and great garlicky food.
Pickled Garlic, Olives stuffed with garlic, Garlic spread and so on!
Elephant Garlic, Rouge Garlic
We bought seed garlic for "Garlic Mad Mike Rossi" two different types as shown in the pics above.
We visited Albert and Queen Victoria's holiday home. Beautiful place. She actually died there as she had always been so happy living with Albert in this glorious retreat.
This boar greeted one at the entrance. Is this Queen Victoria's pet boar, the Ace of Spades?
This was the actual bed that Victoria died in.......fascinating. The plaque, commemorating her life, above the bed was installed by her children.
After a delightful two days on the Island we bid the Rolf's a fond adieu and caught the Red Funnel Ferry to Southhamptom where we were to catch a plane to Bergerac,France.
La Belle France
Day 1.........8 October 2010
Arrive Bergerac…..I get through customs unscathed, friendly customs person, discovered that I was a “Comrade” immediately..I am Famillee’because of Mo……
Scenery immediately is stunning….12th century villages etc..
Stop at Carrefour for basics and discover our first gorgeous delicacies……tiny Moules de Bouchot mussels and local Bergerac wines ……. then we find Meyrals…..stunning….a true medieval village….straight out of a French movie.
The Village of Meyrals
The Front Door to La Ruche
Gob smacked, walk up a medieval cobbled lane to our home for the next week….La Ruche, something to do with Bee’s and discover our key in the Bee adorned letterbox.
Met the local farmer who sells fire wood at the bottom of the lane, Monsieur Coho, also grows fab veggies
Was told that his wife had recently passed away and that the family were annoyed that she had married beneath herself as he had brought nothing to the marriage, they were only married for 40+ years, he cant speak a word of English…..the French.
I was the principal sous chef this first night …..simple stock of Sarlat garlic, shallots, beautiful fennel and Bordeaux white blend…….cooked for a few minutes and mussels plunged in until they opened…..6pm and the local church bell started tolling and the locals were called to matins. Mo made a salad out of a curly lettuce, local tomatoes and fennel…superb. All washed down with a Bordeaux white and a Bordeaux red…..what a start to our trip.
Day 2 9 October 2010
Got up at crack of dawn in preparation for our first market day at Sarlat,about 12 kms from Meyrals. Sarlat is a stunningly beautiful medieval town with the most breathtakingly beautiful buildings.
Art Directed?
Duck Carcasses for stock and soups
The market spreads completely through the town. We have never seen a spread of food, goose, duck, saucisson, sourdough breads, wines (Bergerac/Bordeaux blends, Rose’s, sweet wines), fabulous violet garlic, etc etc etc.....
Look at that beautiful foie gras "bulging" scrumptiously out
Fresh Quails,Pigeons etc
Duck Magret stuffed with fresh pate de foie.....ohhh!
The Famous Walnuts Of Perigord....butter like texture
Fat Porky Cepes and Slippery Jacks complimented by Luscious Raspberries
Juicy, Scrumptious Beefy Tomatoes
The unbelievable range of duck and goose product has to be seen to be believed. Fresh plump pink goose and duck livers or countless tinned versions.. Cantal cheese, which is famous and equally delicious.We both soon developed a slightly glazed look on our faces on being confronted by this amazing array of spectacular viands, as I write, the local church bells are tolling out the invitation to the first mass.
The biggest dilemma was what to choose for Saturday supper. Mo just wanted to buy, buy ,buy, cant blame her. We decide that we should buy handfuls of what we wanted, fresh Charlotte potatoes, shallots and celery, crisp parsley, a branch of fresh bay leaves then a fine confit of duck. Couldn’t resist the mounds of freshly harvested walnuts, bought a kilo for 3 euro’s.
We then purchased a delicious goats milk cheese called Cabecous which we were going to have for lunch. Mo found a stall which sold amazing olives, of which the Lucques green olive and tiny black Nicoise were selected, odd shaped and delicious, also an olive tapanade. Picked up a parking ticket.
Back home the Bergerac Rose was unceremoniously dumped in the freezer to chill. Mo then did a green salad, fresh creamy walnuts, which I had extracted with our new walnut crackers, with grilled Cabecous cheese with a walnut oil dressing
.
Note the creamy fantabulous walnuts
Cantal et al
On the side was a one year matured Cantal and a creamy blue cheese, Bleu des Causses from the Auvergne, mind boggingly tasty, washed down with the now chilled Cab Sauv Rose……oh what a lunch.
After lunch we drove to the famous Chateau Beynac, a walled and crenellated castle which was impressive.
The various Lords/Barons/Kings who lived at Chateau de Beynac
Time to prepare supper. Mo’s turn tonight……
Confit gently sizzling
Salardaise Potatoes
Confit of Duck,gently warmed in a frying pan, Sarladaise Potatoes which is gently sauteed Charlotte potatoes in goose fat, topped off with a Persillade of parsley and ail de violet. Green salad with a walnut oil dressing.We have truly arrived in a Foodies Heaven. All this was washed down with Normandy Cider, Bordeaux, Rose and finished off with Armagnac and Arabica coffee
Watched the BBC news with a thimble full of Armagnac and off to bed.Market day tomorrow as well as a Walnut Mill
Watched the BBC news with a thimble full of Armagnac and off to bed.Market day tomorrow as well as a Walnut Mill
Day 3...... 9 October
Awoke at 4am as the last guest left the "famous artists" house across the way……drifted off to sleep again. Mo made tea and I entered the daily log on the netbook.
Our Meyrals kitchen
Breakfast…..the famous Dordogne strawberries are in season and that’s what Mo had waiting for me as I got downstairs…….as well as the succulent Pruneaux from the local area…….cannot describe the overwhelming plum flavour and the juiciness….oooooooh la la, yesterdays sourdough bread toasted with fresh farm butter and Cantal cheese and more Arabica,what a way to start the day…….Bad weather expected over the next two days…..batten down the hatches etc etc. After breakfast off to St Cyprian Market.
Saw a lot of the stall holders from Sarlat in this pretty little (yes another medieval town). Decisions,decisions what to have for supper…….walked through the market inspecting the fresh fish, Raccasse, Moray eel, oysters, mussels and so on, difficult to make a decision……
Make fab ear rings.....if you are that way inclined....have you ever seen such "Whoppers?"
Have to buy the best giant artichokes that we have ever seen (Modelled by me of course), 3 Euro for two, what a steal. Crisp green cabbage, tiny radishes, dried girole mushrooms….supper is starting to look promising, oh yes, a Charantais melon with a lovely heady aroma
as well as the crunchiest water cress ever…………now to find the main course………a fatted duck breast of course from the Ferme La Martigne weighed 405 gms and that was only one of the breasts….how big was the original duck?
Canard de Magret marinating in Armagnac
Here are the 'appy,corn fed Canard's,naturally all free range
Mo is presently marinading the duck breast in Armagnac ,bay leaf,chopped parsley,coarse salt and black pepper,the local grinders really grind finely as opposed to the ones we get back home. To accompany the Duck Breast we have got waxy potatoes which have been par boiled and sliced and will shortly be sautéed with dried cepes in goose fat and yet more persillade, when they are browned, the liquid from the cepes will be added and cooked until it is absorbed…..how close to
a Valhalla (food warriors paradise) is this?
a Valhalla (food warriors paradise) is this?
Let the sizzling begin
Bought some Pruneaux Confit and Strawberry Confit, soaked in eau de vie from Daniel, who complained that the local inhabitants did not appreciate his creativity, they only liked basic apricot, strawberry etc…tasted some, oh what flavours, will be gorgeous with cheese or on toast.
Tastes and flavour descriptions will follow shortly……difficult choice at the moment is which Bordeaux or Bergerac red will be suitable as we have no idea what they taste like…….how impossibly difficult is that?
Decisions, decisions
6 o’clock, listening to a French Classical music programme, church bell tolls 6, as I type……just got back from a walk in the village, walked up to the church and have discovered that there is a choral concert at 8pm and we are going…really exciting. Went into the Meyerals cemetery, lots of Family tombs, very expensive granite and marble in abundance…..lots of French Resistance Comrades buried there as well. Walnut groves everywhere, kicking walnuts as one would kick pebbles as a boy…..hooliganism never far away from me. On our walk discovered an artists studio owned by Magis, strong turbulent art works filled with explosive colour, met him and he spoke English, hooray, really nice chatty guy, great artist. Telling us how he has over capitalised and put a pool in …..ovay, just like home..
Quaffing a Bergerac Sec at the moment from the Domaine Du Cantonnet, lively acidity and very easy on the palette. Light fruiteness and Mo has just started the salad. Sec is already going to my head, divine! Just discovered our
“Op Art “table mats and I thought it was the sec kicking in!
The duck breast was crispy on the skin side and pink on the inside……….perfectly cooked……melted in your mouth.
Potatoes cooked in goose fat and sautéed with cepes as well as the juice,seasoned with sea salt and pepper……
Savoy Cabbage, first fry onion in goose fat, then add the famous fragrant Perigord "aiol de violet"
….then add chicken stock, just about 200mls,then the finely sliced cabbage………fabulous texture….wash it all down with Bergerac Red and you have a feast fit for a "Plantagenet."
Day 4…11 Oct. 10
Monday in Meyerals, up to the village Boulangerie and it was closed, the French don’t open on Mondays, well most of them don’t……no market so tonight it’s Savoy Cabbage soup with Cantal cheese and croutons. Just opened a bottle of Montravel……flinty, minerally, gorgeous colour and so lively on the tongue, I’m wallowing contentedly in tropical flavours. Michael and Belinda, the owners have just arrived and we’ve been chatting like we’ve known them for ages…..what a nice couple…they own this house and others, Limeuil being one of them.
Went to Castlenaud, founded by the powerful lord Bernard de Casnac…..13th century…..another fabulous fortified chateau……..exquisite views overlooking the Dordogne River and the valley.
Trebuchet's.....The English used to hurl Giant Mince Tarts at their French Neighbours/Enemies from here
I just love how they added to the castle over the years, just plonked it on....notice the stone tiles on the roof
The view from the ramparts. It was one helluva defensive position
Stopped at La Roque Gageac, hemmed in by the Dordogne River on the one side and a sheer sandstone cliff face on the other.
Picture perfect.La Roque Gageac
The back walls of the houses is the "Cliff Face"
This little church was too pretty for words
Had lunch….Mo had a green salad with walnuts and Chevre cheese… ..I had Rillette de Canard as well as Pork with Salardiese potatoes (Mo makes them better) finished off with local Brie and Chevre…….not bad.
Also went to Domme, a fortified village on top of a hill…..very pretty, but touristified in the centre………left and got a bit lost, but what the hell,we’ve got all the time in the world………Chestnuts and Walnuts every where you walk or drive…..been raining…..Cepes will be out in the forests………a mushroom hunting we will go.Got to finish as Mo needs my help…a cooking we will go
Day 5 12 Oct. 2010
Awoke this morning without the dreaded sore throat that has been bugging me for the last few days……I am reborn……Fresh Croissants from our local Boulangerie, just a two minute clamber up the cobbled passage….Bonjour monsieur, said the pretty young bakers wife …….Deux Croissants ,sil vous plait, I replied…..what a way to start the day…
Fresh farm eggs ,sourdough toast and baker fresh Croissants…..yummy.
Off to the market in Le Bugue….just another beautiful Middle Ages village and started the debate on supper….first visit, a fresh fish stall….fish so fresh and glistening with light reflecting off their scales, dazzling the eye…..not joking either….best looking fish we have ever seen, Turbot, Lot, Fresh Trout, Lemon Sole, Racasse and on and on,both of us bowled over.
But wait there is the local butcher with the freshest pork, rabbit with head on and marbled Limousin beef ,Toulouse Sausage,….just too much for the eye to take in….Settled on some beautiful Toulouse sausages, rolled loin of Perigord Pork and a fat ,succulent Andoulette,made from tripe and other interesting bits and pieces, a speciality sausage of the Beynac area. Then lo and behold we spotted Saucisson, with walnut and hazelnut under its grey protective mantle of pigs casing and wood ash……. hallelujah, this is Elysium, the great God Bacchus, my namesake, Dionysus is with us giving his normal hedonistic advice….ah, praise be to him!
But wait there is the local butcher with the freshest pork, rabbit with head on and marbled Limousin beef ,Toulouse Sausage,….just too much for the eye to take in….Settled on some beautiful Toulouse sausages, rolled loin of Perigord Pork and a fat ,succulent Andoulette,made from tripe and other interesting bits and pieces, a speciality sausage of the Beynac area. Then lo and behold we spotted Saucisson, with walnut and hazelnut under its grey protective mantle of pigs casing and wood ash……. hallelujah, this is Elysium, the great God Bacchus, my namesake, Dionysus is with us giving his normal hedonistic advice….ah, praise be to him!
Also selected crackingly green spinach, bright orange, sun drenched pumpkin, fascinating Heritage tomatoes of all shapes and sizes, Bintjes Potatoes as well as a type of jewel hued, violet marbelled with white potato called,Violetta and a divine Quince. Bought more Cantal, 1 year old,a sheeps milk Brebis Fermier, Pyrennean, new to both of us and fabulous as well as a Petite Ariegeois to die for.
Discovered a 2003 Bordeaux…..”would monsieur like a taste……oh yes please…….she pours half a glass…..”your verdict monsieur”……as I forced myself back to Mother Perigord….”yes please,
I whispered”....5.5 Euros later.
I whispered”....5.5 Euros later.
Off back home to Meyrals, reverently unload our plunder and depart for Soulliac, about 45 minutes through more beautiful countryside and on to Pinsac to find Gerard Le Clercq the local coppersmith……give up, can't find him even with the impeccable instructions of Bernard, the Ancien Clock Restorer, all given in French of course…..Back to Soulliac and a Baguette and delicious coffee lunch….old quarter is gorgeous…..Mo bought drying up cloths……lovely colours……..beige of course, with splashes of red and navy.
Back home now and the pork is on, nestled in a bed of chopped Sarlat Leek and Fennel and Quince, stuffed with fat juicy prunes and Ail de Violette and a splash of Cidre Bouche, maybe a little more,…..Charlotte Potatoes tossed in Goose Fat are about to go into the oven………..the church bell tolls 7pm and continues to toll, calling the locals to mass.
Just cut the Orange Pumpkin and Mo tossed it in Goose Fat and popped it into the Godin Gas Oven to slowly roast and caramelise.
Just finished my second glass of cider……… ’lil Green Apples’
The feast was sublime…..barely able to type…..forgot, we had a mustard, flavoured with Perigord Truffle on the side all washed down with a Bergerac SB and a Bergerac Red…..could not finish it all, unfortunately
Bed beckons…….
Day 6 13 October 2010
Cooler today, but off to Rocamadour in the Midi Pyrenees……long drive ahead…..first strawberries and Perigord Prunes and sourdough toast with strawberry and pepper preserve…..fresh Arabica and we are away with a picnic in mind once we’ve been to Rocamadour……longish drive through more beautiful villages,more magnificent chateaux's perched on rocky sandstone outcrops.
Arrive there, stunning view……..catch the funicular down…..pilgrims did it all on their knees, ah what faith can drive you to do……first thing is to pay respects to the “Black Virgin” 13th century….she is made from walnut….quite eerie, apparently she is attributed with lots of amazing miracles over the centuries.
The Black Virgin of Rocamadour
How is this for a chapel...The Catholics know a thing or two about advertising
Beautiful Medieval Chapel in which she is housed. Walked down to the medieval village below but it was filled with lousy curio shops ,even had movement sensitive cicadas which chirped as you walked past them…..what a pity, beautiful buildings, unfortunately filled with modern tourist kitsch.
Left hurriedly to get down to Cahors….they make a high tannic Malbec which apparently is fab…..wine estates all closed…so found one of the big supermarkets which are always stocked to the gunnel's with wine stock from the local Cahors area…..will try a bottle (or two) tonight. Malbec is known as the "Black Wine",it has a thicker skin and more tannin as well as more colour.....it is a chewy, long lived wine with a blackberry fruitiness and the tannins are soft and ripe....great wine, also tried it in various blends.
The Fabulous Cahors Malbec
Saw the famous Cahors Medieval bridge…….spectacular.
Already late and we had a long trip home ahead.
Nearly ran out of petrol……but didn't….thanks Black Virgin.
Home at last….drinking the remains of last nights Bergerac Sauvignon Blanc…delicious…..Mo cracking open fresh walnuts in the “Walnut Cracker”….very intense look on her face.
The "Nut Cracker Herself"
The feast tonight is simplicity itself…….Toulouse Sausage, fresh Salad and Cahors Malbec……Voila……Heaven again
Andouille saucisson made with pigs intestine,tripe etc, delicious
Toulouse,Andouille and goose fat sauteed potatoes
Up early again tomorrow………..My pilgrimage to Lascaux….Cro Magnon Cave paintings…..yippeeeeeee!
Day 7 14 Oct. 2010.
Early breakfast, sourdough bread, Cherry Confit and fresh Arabica.
The joy of it all……..everywhere is so close……..beautiful country roads, through equally beautiful villages and chateau……arrive at Lascaux. As I knew, you cannot go through the actual caves anymore as the rock paintings are being attacked by the notorious “White Fungi”.
The French in their inimitable way have created a carbon copy of the caves…took 11 years to complete…..they have done it down to the square centimetre and used the actual pigments that the Cro Magnon actually used…..absolutely marvellous.
First you enter the cavern of the Bulls…massive Auroch Bulls, up to 5.5 metres in length all in the famous Polychrome colours of Ochre, Magnesium Black and terracotta red. This was certainly a sacred place to these artists….so deep in the earth….cavern after cavern of giant animals, reindeer, horses, bears, Shamans as well half human, half animal figures.
The French in their inimitable way have created a carbon copy of the caves…took 11 years to complete…..they have done it down to the square centimetre and used the actual pigments that the Cro Magnon actually used…..absolutely marvellous.
First you enter the cavern of the Bulls…massive Auroch Bulls, up to 5.5 metres in length all in the famous Polychrome colours of Ochre, Magnesium Black and terracotta red. This was certainly a sacred place to these artists….so deep in the earth….cavern after cavern of giant animals, reindeer, horses, bears, Shamans as well half human, half animal figures.
These paintings are the largest pre-historic examples in the world and purely subterranean. When Picasso saw them for the first time he apparently disconsolately muttered…”They have done it all before us”
Then on to the Trogladyte village of La Roque St Christophe, a true marvel and a Unesco protected Site…..people have been living there for 75000 years…..Neanderthal to modern day man….hats off to the French, the restoration is immaculate in stunning surroundings
One of my long lost French cousins,warmly welcoming us.
Houses used to be built under the overhang
Troglodytes everywhere?
This is what it used to look like
They were a "shortish"people?
Inside one of the remaining houses, note the stone floor and cave roof
Aunt Mabel and Uncle Bert training the pet,originally moved in about 75000 years ago, all on the Higgs side of course
…….we had lunch at a little restaurant in a little village in Thonac called L’oriflame run buy a charming young Corsican couple, Laurent and Caronne. I had a superb Leek Quiche in super light shortcrust pastry accompanied by a delicious green salad, dressed with Balsamic and Olive oil…….Mo had a green salad with Cabecous Goats milk cheese, delicately adorned with fresh walnuts, a blue cheese and a tangy tomato based confiture with Perigord Pimento, fabulous and we exclaimed “Bon Bon Bon” which reduced them to laughing their eyes out, pure simplicity made this a winner.
I even had Laurent exclaiming “Lekker” having taught him how to say it with the right Afrique de Sud intonation.
We were chatting to Carrone who said she was changing the menu to a pure Corsican menu when they came back from holiday and shared some of the recipes with us, they sounded scrumptious.
Good luck to them.
Good luck to them.
We left them and went to nearby farmer who supplies them with their veal, beef and cheeses as well as confiture………it is an organic farm run by Christian….he raises “modern day Auroch” cattle…..what a friendly, amiable fellow he is.
Modern Day Auroch Bull....amiable?
Sold us the Tomato Confiture as well as a delicious “2008 Organic Walnut Wine”drink it as an aperitif or drink it as a wine, delicious, taking a wax sealed bottle of it back to SA.
Off to the local Meyrals”, Auberge de Meyrals” for supper this evening, recommended by Stephanie Alexander, the food writer, can’t wait to sup.
Patric met us at the door of his hostelry with a beaming smile…..we were the only guests tonight…..we had his undivided attention. The quiet season here makes Simonstown quiet time seem like Oxford Circus during the rush hour.
Aperitifs were suggested, Kir was chosen while Patric discussed the menu with us. It all sounded delicious…….Starters was a herring salad with warm baby local potatoes with the lightest of dressings melt in your mouth stuff.
Herrings and baby potatoes on
a base of Scarole
a base of Scarole
Tenderloin of Porc
I asked Patric to give the chef our compliments, he smiled……"I am ze chef" he said proudly, also waiter, sommelier and Patron…..it is a third generation restaurant, Patric is the current incumbent. On to the main course, I chose Duck breast, pink on the inside and flash fried crisp skin, delicious, accompanied by more of the tiny baby potatoes, absolute perfection…..Mo had tenderloin of pork with dashes of moutarde de Perigord, trimmed wth a mixture of Cumin and dried Perigford Pimento…………..this was all washed down with a delightful , chilled to perfection, Bergerac Merlot Rose….this was interrupted by Patric who suddenly appeared with glasses of his favourite Bergerac Red of the moment, made by Eric Lagarde, with well balanced tannins and restrained fruitiness. Back to the Rose, it had significant depth and a long finish, lively acidity and gorgeous berry flavours……oh what absolute bliss……We’re in heaven, undoubtedly.
To finish off I had a slice of the last of the seasons apricot studded torte, finished with a crème de patisserie created by Patric’s Mama…sublime.
Expresso’s to finish, a signed walnut by Patric and we slowly walked the cobbled road between the silent walls of Meyrals on our way home, all of 5 minutes away.To finish off I had a slice of the last of the seasons apricot studded torte, finished with a crème de patisserie created by Patric’s Mama…sublime.
Day 8 15 Oct. 10
Crisp Russet apple with a delightfully tangy flavour…….yep that was breakfast……we woke up late, everywhere covered in an all enveloping mist……….off to Cadouin Abbey.
"Art Directed.....I know"
"Yes....I know,art directed"
Decided on fresh farm chicken,these chickens have the longest legs I have ever seen on.
Legs that go up to her Chin (Beak)?
They are all free range and their skin is a rich corn diet yellow………masses of Mielies grow around here. We spotted a particularly gorgeous lettuce with a frilled outer leaf, that went in the bag as well. Bought a few Charlotte potatoes to add to the pot. Found a little Charcuterie just outside the market and bought a jar of pre prepared Flagolet Beans as they looked so good…….off to the Walnut Mill just outside the little Medieval Village at St Nathalene and somehow got lost eventually made it at about 5 to 12pm and they were closing for lunch….oh well,decided to go back to
St Nathalene as it looked so pretty.The Church was 11-12th century and even had the original stone altar,,,,,absolutely stunning. Interestingly it was Anglican and they did some of their services in English.
St Nathalene's and the imposing Pilgrims Cross
Chatted to an elderly English couple who lived right across from the church, took some pics of the large Pilgrims Cross in the main st and decided to go back to Sarlat to have lunch as everywhere was closed locally,
Found a little restaurant that looked promising……Mo ordered Pate de Foie Gras and I ordered Cassoulet.I ordered a Bergerac Red. The warning bells started ringing when they bought the bread, it was day/s old….horrors…..then the young waiter bought the wine and did not know how to to operate the Waiters Friend Corkscrew…..I had to show him….shudder, shudder…..my warmed up Cassoulet arrived, excepting it had not been re-heated properly….nothing worse.
Needless to say we left this restaurant fast…..lesson learnt……beware of restaurants in towns that draw large numbers of tourists. Decide to visit the Museum of Man at Eyzies-de-Tayac,Fabulous,ultra modern building built into the side of the cliff amongst medieval Troglydyte houses.Fantastic display of flake tools,skeletons of Cro Magnon and Neanderthal,lots of movies,demonstrating tool making and carving,amazingly life like reconstructions of Cro Magnon Man and Neanderthals in latex.They used the same re-constructive methods that police use when determining what a murder victim would look like,fascinating stuff.
Drive the short distance back to Meyerals and mentally preparing ourselves for the Supper Cooking Challenge.On the way back through rolling forests and fields,Mo spotted a Raptor,probably a Kestrel take out a bird,type not quite sure .I caught a fleeting glance of the drama.
Went through our cookery books and decided to do it our own way.
Diced up the unusual Violette Potatoes,Multicoloured carrots,a few Charlotte Potatoes,a fresh Perigord leek ( about 400mm long),Sauteed briefly in goose fat then put the chicken thighs and legs on top,salt and peppered the lot and a glug of white Semillion/Colombard….put them it an 160 degree oven,Mo went and washed her hair and got really excited about her Moroccan Argon Oil that she had bought at the market.
In the meantime I prepared the giant Artichokes,trimmed the leaves and peeled the stalks and put them into salted water.Mo had previously soaked a few dried Perigord Cepes which were added to the Pottage that was aromatically simmering in the oven…….time to dine……the medieval kitchen had never smelt so good………the chicken was golden and the vegetables were a Martian golden brown with tinges of russet..
"They look so good ,I had to repeat the pic"
This is one Artichoke.....could be in "Ripleys Believe It Or Not"
Mo quartered the Artichoke and it was equivalent to 4 large normal sized ones and we had cooked two……never going to eat both ,not even one…The chicken was unbelievably tasty, flavours that came from another age and the chicken and goose fat sautéed vegetables, deliciously melted in your mouth., The artichokes were like eating butter,an almost identical texture….mmmmmmmmmm…..yummmmmmmmmm.
Washed down with another Cahors Malbec Blend…….food heaven.
Day 9 16 Oct. 10
Dawn breaks at about 8am in Meyerals at the moment….difficult to get out of under pure wool blankets on cool mornings.Church bell tolling,must get up,the padre demands now.
Don't forget Rosary!
Don't forget Rosary!
Got to clean up and also go to the market in Le Bugue this morning as we have decided to do the quintessential dish of the region Perigord…..Cassoulet!
Arrive at the market, the river Vezere chuckles past as we cross the bridge, fish surface as the river drags the willow wands. quietly under.
The market starts at the end of the bridge and it is the Fishmonger, Fresh Herrings and Sardines, Lemon Soles and Grenadiers, glistening Turbot et al et al.
We decide on Lemon Sole…..filleted by a maestro, beautifully trimmed of all the excess accoutrements.
We decide on Lemon Sole…..filleted by a maestro, beautifully trimmed of all the excess accoutrements.
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Heritage Tomatoes,fab shapes and colours,Flavours straight from the Culinary Gods
Heritage Tomatoes,fab shapes and colours,Flavours straight from the Culinary Gods
We find and buy succulent, beautiful tomatoes, parsley, dried haricot beans,carrots,2 onions and Charlotte Potatoes.
Then we went to Jean-Jacques Servolle of St Chamassy…he provides one with exceptional porc produce…beautifully trimmed…..we purchased a sliver of Porc Sale, salt pork….a small piece of porc shoulder, two divine Toulouse Sausages.
Then onto the local Charcuterie and bought a Magret of Duck which cost a mere 5 Euros for 400gms….it is a joke to pay these low prices for such quality products…..also a sensational slice of Porc Rillettes.suprisingly it is easier to find Rillettes de Canard than it is Porc…..merde!
Mo needed some Truffle for an omelette so we bought some of last years bottled crop…..the season only starts in December…we will survive.
Got back to Meyerals at 10.30 to find the Pattisons already cleaning up the house…we thought that we had until 12pm…..oooooy vay!
Apologised and departed for Limeuil….voted one of the most beautiful villages in Belle France….arrived at this Bastide Village, perched on top of a hill with the convergence of the Rivers Dordoge and Vezere at the bottom of our lane, swans preening, sun just starting to appear from behind the clouds….gorgeous.
Limeuil,One of the Beautiful Villages of France,Hell,we've got to live there for a whole week!
The house is called “Le Maison de la Justice” and is really pretty, beautiful views over the surrounding forests and a little garden overshadowed by a centuries old Beech tree.
I spotted this old fob watch,hiding under a spiders web,when time stood still in Limeuil
The house used to be the local magistrates court and it dealt with all the local trying of petty crimes like drunkenness, wife beating, arguments over gambling and so on. The cellar is the original gaol and now houses the washing machine and a colony of friendly bats!
Quick walk around the village …oooohs and aaaaaah’s and then lunch…saussison in ash, artichoke from last night, Zebra striped tomatoes ,a selection of olives, Porc Rillettes, and a delicious Sauvigon Blanc, Touraine from the Loire….very, very nice…..Chicken stock now bubbling on the gas hob, Haricots soaking, salad soaking….Mo saying “look at this lettuce ”it is so fulsome that we are not sure if we can finish it or not in the remaining week….tasting a delicious Bordeaux from the Chateau Moulin de Fontenyellle 2003,,wine maker is Mike Baubias…..gorgeous understated fruitiness, luscious berry flavours, restrained tannins…earthy and delicious.
The sole fillets are my domaine….simplicity will prevail…..seasoned with sea salt and pepper, fried quickly in olive oil, served with sautéed potatoes, obviously in goose fat…….salad with escarole lettuce, Mache, very similar to lambs lettuce, fresh walnuts (Mo is sitting in front of me, determinedly crushing about six or seven of them) and a Perigord walnut oil dressing. to finish it off.
Scarole Lettuce, Chicory family,delicious
Add freshly extracted Walnut Oil to finish it off
To end the feast there are local figs, stuffed with a Petite Abriegois Goats Milk Cheese, which will be roasted in the oven for about 20 minutes. Photo session fast approaching.
Nearly deliciously there
I cooked the Lemon Sole, lightly dressed with Sea Salt and Pepper, the salad of lettuce and juicy walnuts was ready and the “Les Pommes Au L’Echirlete” sautéed Charlotte potatoes which had previously simmered in garlic and chicken stock and then finished off in goose fat until a glorious golden brown.
Washed it down with a Bergerac Rose,which was delicious and finally a bottle of Cahors Red 2007…….superb.
Finally the Cahors,Chateau de Port,a lively soft tannined,mouth filling,memorable red blend
Day 10 17 Oct. 10……Sunday
Sun shining, church bells tolling, chickens crowing everywhere, Rooks chirping/cawing,cool but not icy.
Off to market in St Cyprien……no breakfast, but looking forward to brunch after market….I can already smell the Croissants from here at the little Boulangerie that we have discovered.
Market was packed, found really nice confit de canard, found a boulangerie stall with nice looking breads and pastries and bought Pruneaux Torte,Pain de Raison, Croissants and bread.
Also found some really great Canard de Foie Grasse, tinned to take back to SA.
Also found some really great Canard de Foie Grasse, tinned to take back to SA.
Got home, prepared fresh Arabica and sat down to brunch…..Croissants disappointing ,as well as the bread, wont go to them again. Still a tasty brunch with our cheese selection and confiture…..
Mo is busy preparing the ultimate Perigord meal……Cassoulet…..fat haricot beans have been soaking since last night, and are now simmering with a shallot, sliced carrot, fresh parsley and bay leaves,3 garlic cloves and pepper corns , pinch of cloves, a thick slice of salt porc on the bone on the gas hob. That will simmer away for approx an ½ hour.
The preparation of the perfect Cassoulet is well under way. Shoulder of porc sizzling in goose fat, nicely browned and sealed ,add chopped carrot and shallot and brown, separately brown Toulouse sauages, chop and add to the porc, shallot and carrot. And seal further for another 10 mins ,now add a large Beefy tomato with its seeds removed, now add 3 cloves of Perigord garlic.Add home made chicken stock and allow to gently simmer for about an hour....... Pachabel playing gently in the background…..aaaaaah Perigord.
The preparation of the perfect Cassoulet is well under way. Shoulder of porc sizzling in goose fat, nicely browned and sealed ,add chopped carrot and shallot and brown, separately brown Toulouse sauages, chop and add to the porc, shallot and carrot. And seal further for another 10 mins ,now add a large Beefy tomato with its seeds removed, now add 3 cloves of Perigord garlic.Add home made chicken stock and allow to gently simmer for about an hour....... Pachabel playing gently in the background…..aaaaaah Perigord.
Meanwhile slowly fry the Canard de Confit in its entirety for approx ½ hour, ‘til it is gently warmed through and a substantial amount of duck fat has been rendered. Let the Confit cool and shred coarsely off the bone…..make sure you keep all the rendered duck fat for future cooking like roast potatoes.Now assemble the Cassoulet….layer the oven dish with beans,then layer the meats on top.
Now another layer of beans and finally a thick layer of Sough dough bread crumbs…..drizzle duck fat over the bread crumbs and put into a 160 degree oven….after about 1 ½ hours gently push the crust that has formed back into the stock of the Cassoulet and add a little of the reserved bean stock.Leave be for another approx 1 ½ hours and 'til the crust is a beautiful crunchy amber brown.
Now another layer of beans and finally a thick layer of Sough dough bread crumbs…..drizzle duck fat over the bread crumbs and put into a 160 degree oven….after about 1 ½ hours gently push the crust that has formed back into the stock of the Cassoulet and add a little of the reserved bean stock.Leave be for another approx 1 ½ hours and 'til the crust is a beautiful crunchy amber brown.
"Chef's tip........Take the skin of the Confit and slowly render it further,,,,,when the skin has been thoroughly crisped let it cool and roughly crumble for use in your next omelette, yummy. Maybe add a few freshly fried cepes to the omelette at the same time"
This, oh so famous dish……….Cassoulet has been simmering and genteeeeeeeely bubbling for the last 3 hours and smells delicious.
Heaven on Mother Earth.......Mo's Cassoulet
Time to serve…..the crust is golden amber brown and little bubbles of stock contentedly pop through.
Fresh green salad on the side and a Cahors Malbec as an accompaniement…..now take that first bite…..the haricot beans are incredibly creamy and the meats just simply melt in the mouth…all the flavours of the Perigord come bursting through.Heaven in a little kitchen in a Medieval cottage,perched on the side of a hill in Limeuil,judged as one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Coffee and Armagnac to finish…..then to bed.
Day 11 18 Oct. 10
Over slept…church bells did not wake us.Straight to St Alvere,another gorgeous village with a small farmers market…….buy a magnificent brown skinned onion!.....then off to the local village Boulangerie,
Les Compaillette, to buy light as a feather pastries and a forked tailed (le Grand Cru) French Baquette….walking back to the car contentedly chewing on the pastry.
Les Compaillette, to buy light as a feather pastries and a forked tailed (le Grand Cru) French Baquette….walking back to the car contentedly chewing on the pastry.
The remains of a Medieval Chateau opposite the Bollangerie Les Compaillette, we cross over the street and buy our Breakfast
Each baker has his or hers style of Baquette
Then off to Intermarche,big supermarket (best places to buy local wines,fab selection) and bought some wine and and some lids for pots,ingenious invention.they fit different size pots with like a ridged surface AND THE PERFECT SIMMER CONTROLLER .very clever these French……Wish we had supermarkets like this back home the quality and presentation of specifically food and wine is superb.
We then drove through to Cadouin to the Notre-Dame de Cardouin.This is a magnificent Abbey/Cathredral,magnificent faded frescoes of Christ and the Blessed Virgin adorn the soaring walls,
a magnificent altar and a centuries old Joseph and Jesus paintings are the incredible centre piece.
a magnificent altar and a centuries old Joseph and Jesus paintings are the incredible centre piece.
Beautiful faded frescoes
Fascinating Maltese Cross,Knights Templar I would say
Joan of Arc...still highly revered
The Cloisters at Cardouin,exquisite
This old arched door used to lead in to the main church
The original cloisters are being restored and are breath taking…….what a spectacle….bumped into a couple of monks who were giving a guided tour to a group of School kids who were dressed as penitents/Pilgrims,,,,,charming.
Medieval Modern
Spotted this gorgeous door near the cathedral
Then onto another cathedral St Avit-Senieur….also very impressive….this is all quite mind boggling.
I just loved the ancient frescoes in all the churches
Back in Limeuil and getting ready for supper….I’m nibbling on the Baquette,driving Mo up the wall “You’ll never eat you supper etc” washing it down with a Bergerac Rose from the Domaine de Grange Neuve,made by Castraing et Fils……they make great Rose’s round here.
We’re going to have Magret de Canard,salad and probably Salardaise Potatoes again as it is traditional!
Bought the Magret de Canard at Le Bugue market the other day….oh how the down trodden have to fare!
Bought the Magret de Canard at Le Bugue market the other day….oh how the down trodden have to fare!
How pink is my Magret
Mo has just put a slice of Rillettes de Porc in front of me…….stop and eat I command myself…..it is so delicious!...not too fatty,great globs of shredded pork,sublime..Canard de Magtet in the pan,hissing and crackling as it cooks….have to watch that one does not overcook,potatoes goldening up beautifully……walnut oil dressing ready for the Escarole lettuce and fresh Mache……….Duck skin is crisp and delicious,washed down with a Bordeaux ……Salardaise Potatoes scrumptious made with Binchi Potatoes…..ah gourmands heaven!
No Armagnac tonight
Day 12…..19 Oct 2010
Weather has got noticeably colder in the last few days
One must be suitably attired for the Arctic Cold,ask "Shackleton" here
……an Arctic cold Front has been sweeping across France as well a major strike over pensions,which looks like it is turning into a General Strike…….hope we don’t get caught up in it as we leave here on Saturday for the UK………The one observation that I have made since staying in Medieval houses is that they are designed for people much smaller that me.
I have developed a “Permanent Stoop”
I now know why Mike Green walks like he does and why Victor Hugo wrote his famous classic about Notre-Dame.
I have developed a “Permanent Stoop”
I now know why Mike Green walks like he does and why Victor Hugo wrote his famous classic about Notre-Dame.
Quasimodo on the prowl,stooped of course
We are off to Sajnte-Foy-de-Longes to visit “La Truffiere de la Bergerie”,hopefully to find “Hazlenut and Black Truffle Paste ………our own taste of the elusive Perigord Black Diamonds.
Breakfast will be on the “Road”probably sampling the delightful products of yet another country Boulangerie.
Breakfast will be on the “Road”probably sampling the delightful products of yet another country Boulangerie.
Bought another “Fork Tailed “ Baquette,some melt in the month Croissants,my favourite,Pain de Raison and a twisted delightful pastry with chocolate and a off dry custard…ooooooooh!
Reache La Bugue and straight to Messieur “Le Cordouan” the Fish Monger….the best purveyor of piscatorial delights and delicacies in the whole of the Dordogne.
We were going to have Turbot,but changed our minds at the last moment and went for Red Mullet or as they call it in Belle France.Rouge Barbet……,already filleted …..and then chose some of ht pre prepared Squid with heads on and Prawn,sauteed with parsley and olive oil….delicious.That's supper.
Just about to tuck into some of last nights Duck Magret,Porc Rillettes,Petite Albigeois cheese,Brebis,which is from the Pyranees cheese and some of our delicious Cantal cheese with our fresh crispy baquette that we bought in St Alvere this morning..
Just when you thought nothing could be more sublime…Mo cut open a Heritage Tomato which has a blue,green and red skin,added a little salt…..never tasted such an explosion of intense tomatoey flavours ever,anyway this is being added to a simple salad of green Escarole Lettuce….to finish off,crisp Canard Skin,cut ever so thin and tossed in,I think they call it Grillions.
I need another glass of Pinot Noir please.
I need another glass of Pinot Noir please.
Oh so tiny Red Mullet fillets,sooooo delicious
We also bought this prepared sea food salad from the fishmonger as a starter........yummmmmmy!
Another delicious escarole chicory salad
The Red Mullet was delicious and the simple sautéed potatoes were fabulous,both of us cant get over the quality and texture as well as variety….never forget that it is Autumn.
Finished off the Alsace Pinot Noir….equally delicious,gorgeous ripe berry flavours,subtle hints of frambois.
Concerned about finding petrol,owing to the nation wide strike over pensions….Cameron has got it easy.
Finished off the Alsace Pinot Noir….equally delicious,gorgeous ripe berry flavours,subtle hints of frambois.
Concerned about finding petrol,owing to the nation wide strike over pensions….Cameron has got it easy.
Day 13 21 Oct. 10
The weather really has turned,3C degrees this morning,we were not prepared for it as the long range forecast had stated with some confidence an average of 20-25 degrees.The house being a typical Medieval house has thick walls and “cool” rooms,enough to chill a bottle of red to a perfect drinking temperature of around 15C degrees.
Breakfast was very simple,Charentais Melon,Petite Campanga country bread,toasted and cheese and confiture,strawberry with peppercorns to be precise.Steaming fresh Arabica and we were on our way to Monpazier,another typical beautiful Bastide village.,probably 20 kms away for market day.
Left in heavy mist and a winding “C”road means very narrow and twists and turns between forest walls.
Typical "C" Road,Door Scrapingly Narrow
You don’t get Cape Town Taxis here,but truck drivers,mini van drivers are taught to “tail gate” at driving school and all of a sudden,whilst travelling at 50-70kmh you will have one of the guys sitting on your tail,impatiently trying to get past.One learns to ignore them and drive like a typical old man,hanging on for dear life to the steering wheel,in a hunched forward position.If you are lucky he will overtake and terrorise some other “old man”
Monpazier is really pretty.On arrival you are confronted by a typical Gothic arch,
Monpazier,the arch that leads through to the inner village
which once upon a time would have had armed , halberd bearing guards with the colours of the local lord emblazoned on their chests.
Monpazier Coat Of Arms
Small market,but as usual a fabulous selection of seasonable eatables and fabulous characters
How is that for a ultra colourful presentation of different types of gourds?
An of course the wonderful 'variety' descriptions
I thought Madame le Peroxide was gorgeous
Beautiful shiny brown chestnuts everywhere
Bought our 2 carrots,1 celeriac,1 turnip.Then onto the Boucherie/Chartcuterie to buy 2 Toulouse sausages…..is’nt it wonderful that you can buy exactly what you need.
Wonderful Toulouse Sausage maker
Bought some......at this store....don't you love the sign?
How come the French always have fabulous windows?
Onto Beaumont but passed through as everything was closed and went through to Molieres,but as we drove found the through road blocked by builders who were renovating a local building.we had to find a detour so we turned back and went up a narrow medieval street to find a way round,never forget most of these villages have very few roads round or that actually don’t end in a dead end…..our detour took us into a lovely large square and a local pub/bar looked inviting.
Parked and took a seat and in my normal terrible broken French ordered coffee……our host replied in perfect Essex,grinned and took our order.Two gents sitting next to us were also speaking good quality Essex,so we started chatting and they were in the process of setting up home just down the village lane,but had decided to have a beer break.Chatted about what their plans were and how they were going to grow some vegetables,raise a goat or two etc.
Another gent then sat down at a vacant table and ordered a flask of Bergergac Rose.After awhile the newly arrived gent asked me in Afrikaans “are you two Jaapies here on holiday”
His name was John Ridgeway who now lived down the road in Cadouin,opposite the big Abbey.
Parked and took a seat and in my normal terrible broken French ordered coffee……our host replied in perfect Essex,grinned and took our order.Two gents sitting next to us were also speaking good quality Essex,so we started chatting and they were in the process of setting up home just down the village lane,but had decided to have a beer break.Chatted about what their plans were and how they were going to grow some vegetables,raise a goat or two etc.
Another gent then sat down at a vacant table and ordered a flask of Bergergac Rose.After awhile the newly arrived gent asked me in Afrikaans “are you two Jaapies here on holiday”
His name was John Ridgeway who now lived down the road in Cadouin,opposite the big Abbey.
The Affable Ex-Simonstown Navy, Mr John Ridgeway
He is a retired History Teacher who has living in England since the 70’s and has been living in the South West for a considerable period of time owing to “circumstances”…..turn out he used to be in the navy in Simonstown and nogal he’s Jewish…not practicing.Had a great conversation with him.He has just started writing a column for the Argus,entitled France or something like that.If you saw the size of this village and its remoteness you would understand our amazement at the discussions we were having.Will watch out for his column,appearing towards the end of October. Drove home on the “C’ Road
Busy cooking two meals at the moment…..a haricot bean,soupy stew dish,named La Sobronade,perfect for 17 degrees.
It consists of chopped Celeriac,carrots,shallots,lardons,all slowly browned in goose fat.Harricot beans have been simmering for the past ½ hour and we add all of this to the beans.Let that simmer fo about another ½ hour,fry a couple of Toulouse sausages or pure pork ones in a little goose fat and then add to the vegetable and bacon lardon mix,,,,,,while this is all going on we open a bottle of Percharmant,made by Domaine De La Curguetiere to settle one down, while all the intense cooking activity is happening.
Delicious by the way.
Delicious by the way.
The dish we are cooking is for tomorrow night.So now we have to cook tonight's supper
The ultimate morsel of decadence,candied fig with a heart of Pate De Foie Gras...........
OOOOOOOh,the slicing
Delicately laid on a bed of lightly toasted Pain de Campagne
The Famous Monbazillac Semi Sweet Wine,heaven
..”interuptus”…..time for a pate de foei moment with a Perigord Fig, stuffed with pate foie gras,accompanied with a Monbazillac semi sweet wine…..oooooooooh my Goooooooooooooood,how divine is this,……..slightly caramelised figs stuffed quite sensuously with Pate de Foie,I am reborn and have entered an altered state,slightly sweet with the subtle salty tang of the Foie Gras….quite superb,a moment of pure heaven and bliss.
This fruit from Bacchus was from a little Charcuterie in Perigaux which we had visited earlier,tucked into a corner….he also did other fruits as well.
This fruit from Bacchus was from a little Charcuterie in Perigaux which we had visited earlier,tucked into a corner….he also did other fruits as well.
Tonight's supreme dish is a potato cake with Cantal Cheese,Bacon Lardons,served with bright orange Perigord Pumpkin and scrumptious salad. Potato Cake was mind blowingly delicious…..accompanied by draughts of Bergerac Red,this one a 2006 by Chateau Sainte-Foy des Vignes…. Alc12.5% .
Also a Parchemant which was equally delicious.
Also a Parchemant which was equally delicious.
Crisp,Crunchy Complete Ecstasy
Neither of us have had a heavy head or any hint of gout.
Its how they make it darling......Magical Food and Wine Wizardry
Day 14 22 Oct 2010
Last day in Limeuil……simple breakfast Campagne Bread Toast,Cantal,Brevet cheese and finished off the last of the cherry and strawberry confiture.Fresh Arabica and then off to buy a Campagne Baquette and a bottle of wine.
Stopped at Tremolat,a little village not far from here and went into the local grocery store to get our wine and had a very amusing discussion with the owner about South African Rugby and French Rugby,neither of us understood what each of us were talking about ..............,charming proprietor.
Stopped at Tremolat,a little village not far from here and went into the local grocery store to get our wine and had a very amusing discussion with the owner about South African Rugby and French Rugby,neither of us understood what each of us were talking about ..............,charming proprietor.
Went into the local church and saw some amazing Frescoes on the wall behind the altar….quite inspirational.There was also a very narrow flight of well worn stairs that led up to a tiny door,Quite puzzling…….no answers.
Tiny age worn stairs
Cleaning up at the moment and preparing for the flight back to Southampton and then down to the Island and John and Joan for the night and then I’m off to Heathrow and back to Johannesburg to spend a night and day with Denis Youell and then the same with Phil,Cere and the boys,then back home to Cairnside and summer!
Supper is a pork, Harricot bean,Toulouse sausage etc as explained previously….it has stood resting all day and the aroma cold is delicious…..heaven awaits us.It was heavenly,washed down with yet another bottle of Bordeaux…………….last of the Armagnac,coffee,bed and a 7am departure time for Bergerac Aeroport,about 50mins away.
Day 15 23 Oct. 10
On board the Flybe flight now on way back to Southhampton,catch the ferry to Isle of Wight where John and Joan will pick us up…..fish and chips on the menu tonight.
One last night on the island
Mo and Joan
John and Joan
One last night in the local pub
I bade everybody good bye and set off early for Heathrow and the trip back to SA.
Arrive back in SA,crippled and "Victor Hugo deformed" by the trip, Denis is waiting for me at OR Tambo,spend a half hour trying to get his car out of the parking area as the machine had swallowed his money and ticket and would spit nothing out.....eventually we were released.
Spend the night with Denis Youel and naturally a pub lunch or two in Joburg,then on to Phil and Ceri and Brandon and Justin at Harties for the night,lots of laughs and wine.
Mo will meet me at Oliver Tambo on Tuesday and we will both be back in Cape Town on Wednesday afternoon.
FABULOUS HOLIDAY......doing the things that we love best.
FINIS
